Outdoor: Canoeing: The Cèze

Known locally as the la rivière perdue - the lost river - the Cèze is a jewel by any definition, since it is even possible to pan for gold along its banks. Rising on the slopes of Lozère, it winds its way for 130km, almost parallel to the Ardèche, before joining France’s principal river, the mighty Rhône. A mercurial river, in the winter months it can burst its banks and flow out of control, while providing some of the most gentle and relaxed canoeing during the summer.
Close to the old market town of St Ambroix in the Gard, Cap Canoë is a very well-established hire centre. For its owner, Alain Jourdan, the attraction of the Cèze is that it remains a haven where families can spend a calm and relaxing day on the river, in contrast to some of the more commerically exploited larger venues. What’s more, the Cèze is not under the same restrictions with regard to children; although obviously not recommended for babies or toddlers, children under 7 are permitted to accompany adults. To provide the best value for its customers Cap Canoë has a good stock of canoes which can carry up to two adults and two children under 6.

In summer there are two trip options. The 4km trip is from the St Ambroix base to Malcap, an easy paddle which takes in the Moulin du Roc Tombé, which has a small restaurant overlooking the river. There are excellent swimming spots along this stretch, and ample beaches to pull up the canoe and picnic. The 8km trip to St Denis allows you to take in even more of the natural beauty of the Cèze, and during the spring period from April to June a 14km trip is available, taking in the most dramatic section of the Cèze gorge and finishing at the medieval village of Montclus.
Cap Canoë is open from the beginning of April to the end of September. If you haven’t thought of packing a picnic there is a small cafe open throughout the summer at the centre which serves light meals. Alain is yet another mine of information on the local wildlife and he even has some interesting waterproof guides for sale on the local birds and fish, many of which you are likely to see during the trip.
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