Outdoor: Canoeing: The Ardèche

While the Gorges de l’Ardèche, the most scenic part of the Ardèche river, is arguably just outside the Cevennes, the river itself offers some of the most unforgettable kayaking. Most of the hire centres can be found at the northern end of the 30 km gorge, with its limestone cliffs (some 300 metres high) and the famous Pont d”Arc, a natural stone arch which spans the river 60 metres above your head. For those in search of thrills the spring is the best time to kayak the Ardèche when the current is strongest and the rapids at their most exhilarating. The hot, lazy days of summer are perfect for a slow descent with plenty of stops to swim, fish or just take in the scenery.

Like most of the hire centres on the Ardèche, Alpha Bateaux at Vallon-Pont-d’Arc offers a number of trips of various lengths. For those trying canoeing for the first time or with only limited time a 6km ‘mini-trip’ is available. To do it justice however the 24km trip is the best way to take in the unique features of this landscape. Far as it sounds, this is quite manageable as a daytrip, taking approximately 5 hours, with plenty of time for breaks. If it is a little more adventure you are seeking then the 30km trip may be more your taste which can be split over 2 days, with one night under canvas on the banks of the river. Or even the 60km trip which begins 30km upriver at the charming village of Vogüé and can be spread over 3 days or more. It is essential to book these overnight trips well in advance - the gorge is a national park and because of the fragile environment only a total of 500 people per day are allowed to camp in the two designated areas.

Monsieur and Madame Peschier, a delightful couple who set up Alpha over 20 years ago, are a mine of information about the fauna and flora of the river. They are keenly interested in the preservation of the region’s natural beauty, which, as Monsieur Peschier is keen to point out, has “remained unchanged for 1000 years”. Madame, for her part, comes from a long tradition of river people. Her grandfather punted visitors down (and up!) the Ardèche back in the 1920’s.

Alpha Bateaux is open from the end of March to October. In July and August they offer free initiation by qualified trainers for those who have no experience of kayaking.
Local regulations require that anyone on the river needs to be at least 7 years old and be capable of swimming 25 metres or more. The only exception is if the group is accompanied by a qualified instructor. It is also a legal requirement to wear an approved lifejacket while on the water, or risk a fine.
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